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Costumes and Textiles

Dior GownThe Museum's world-renowned costume and textile collection is noted both for its size and the quality of its holdings.


Research

Requests for information about objects in the Costumes and Textiles collection may be submitted by mail. Research inquiries by telephone are not accepted. Please download and complete the Object Research Inquiry Form to submit your request. Due to current staff commitments, a response to your inquiry from a member of the Museum’s staff may take as long as four weeks.

In-person research of objects is available by appointment only. Please note that in-person research of objects in the Costumes and Textiles collection is currently unavailable until July 2009. To schedule a research appointment after that time, please use the Object Research Inquiry Form.

Requests for images of objects in the Costumes and Textiles collection can be made directly through the Rights and Reproductions Office if you have any of the following information: object accession number; creator name and title; or image reference number. If this information is not available to you, please download and complete the Object Research Inquiry Form.

> Download the Object Research Inquiry Form (PDF, 279 KB)

Costumes

The costume holdings, which includes articles of dress connected to Chicagoans (including items made by Chicago's dressmakers, milliners, and manufacturers) as well as examples of early American attire, is comprised of well over 50,000 objects, including men's, women's, and children's clothing, and accessories.

The earliest costume pieces, dating from the 18th century, include suits worn by George Washington (1793) and John Adams (c. 1780). The collection also has a number of items that belonged to Abraham and Mary Todd Lincoln, as well as clothing worn by prominent Chicagoans, including items such as former Mayor Jane Byrne's inaugural suit (1979), Michael Jordan's Chicago Bulls uniform (1989), and gospel singer Mahalia Jackson's choir robe (1959). In addition, the Museum has an extensive designer collection ranging from rare examples of Paul Poiret creations to the innovative designs of Yohji Yamamoto.

Highlights of the Costume Holdings

  • Ku Klux Klan robe and hood, 1870s
  • US Army fatigue jacket, c. 1862
  • Two red linen sashes worn by the defendants charged in the Haymarket bombing, 1886
  • Illinois suffragist hat, c. 1912
  • Pocket watch used by Abraham Lincoln, 1861
  • Pajamas worn by Hugh Hefner, 1970–97
  • Top hat worn by Abraham Lincoln, c. 1861
  • Chicago Bear uniform worn by Mike Singletary during the 1985 Super Bowl Season
  • "Sorbet," evening gown by Paul Poiret, 1913
  • Evening ensemble by Elsa Schiaparelli with embroidered design by Jean Cocteau, 1937
  • Evening gown by Worth worn by Bertha Honoré Palmer, 1900
  • Mainbocher Wave Uniform, c. 1942
  • Cape by Elizabeth Keckly worn by Mary Todd Lincoln to Ford's Theater, April 14, 1865
  • Bes-Ben red leather lobster hat, c. 1942
  • Artisan's half apron, c. 1800
  • Christening dress of Joseph Williams, 1779
  • Women's patchwork and calico pocket, c. 1775
  • Feather fans used by Sally Rand, c. 1955
  • Zoot suit by Hal Fox, 1995
  • Woman's wrap by Liberty of London, c. 1921
  • Boeing Air Transport stewardess uniform, c. 1930
  • Joseph Cardinal Bernadin's vestments, c. 1986
  • Women's black suit by Christian Dior, 1947
  • Evening gown with faces of Marilyn Monroe and James Dean by Gianni Versace, 1991

Textiles

The textile holdings encompass a broad range of materials, including more than 140 quilts, political campaign items, and samplers.

Highlights of the Textile Holdings

  • Quilts by Morris Williams, Olivet Baptist Church, c. 1925
  • "Floridian Garden" patchwork and appliqué quilt made by Joanna Bitter for Sears Roebuck A Century of Progress quilt competition, 1933
  • Patchwork quilt made by Mrs. Russell, c. 1875
  • Crazy quilt made by St. Paul Ladies Aid Society, 1883
  • Sampler by Susanna Lane, age 11, 1776
  • Sampler by Eliza McCoy, age 10, 1800
  • Coverlet by Phebe Machin, c. 1820
  • Memorial handkerchief, "The Love of Truth Mark the Boy," c. 1805
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